I've noticed that this tutorial forum is lacking a bit in it's reason to be here, so I've decided to add this tutorial. I hope it helps someone one day.

At this point, I've done a very basic outline with a 9mm HB mech pencil. I've laid down some 2B in some of the darker spots with a 7mm mech. I use the 7mm 2B because it puts graphite a little deeper into the paper than a wood on a more consistant level. I'll continue laying down the 2B where its needed. I'm only throwing it down in the basic dark areas so I have something to work with while using the blending stump. When I start with the stump, I'm going to sculpt the mid tones into place with no pencil, just the stump.




Here I've finished most of the dark areas. This'll be enough to start with the blending stump. I've shaded in some of the darker mid-tones with the 2B mechanical to help with a consistent darker blend. I'll probably start at the bottom so I can cover the dark bottom with a piece of paper and tape it.

I haven't erased the grid lines yet because they'll play a large part when sculpting the mid-tones. Either they'll be blended away, or I'll erase them after this stage of blending.




This is about 2 hours of just the blending stump. I haven't touched it with a pencil since the last update. Mainly I'm just conditioning the paper and getting rid of the "paper" texture as I sculpt in the mid tones. I'll leave his jacket alone and not blend it at all to leave the fabric look.
Now that I've given myself something to work from using the stump, I'm going to take the 2B mechanical back out, erase the remaining grid lines and I'll go over the darker tones to darken them up a bit and probably shade with the HB also to hit some of the lighter ones. One thing I do is I tend to blend the over layering 2B with the HB wood. This works in the 2B to the paper better than a stump and gives me better control.




I've been doing some shading with the 2B mechanical and a wood H and HB pencil. I've also been doing some detail like "his" right eye etc... with a B and 2B 3mm mechanical. I did a light shade for the background with a wood H, than a wood B and blended it with a foam wedge. I've hardly touched any detail yet, thats where the time will take it's toll.




About 12 hours to this point. I'm working on the details with a 2B mechanical and shading with some harder wood pencils such as F, 2H...



15 hours total. I've done touchups with the 2H 3MM mechanical to clean it up a bit and add more texture to the skin and features. The 2H mech pencil can be worked with a smaller effect than a soft 2B helping with a wider range of values. It can also dig the already laid down 2B mech graphite deeper into the paper and smooth it out a bit.



Scan

Very nice the drawing doesn't even look at all like a drawing it looks like a photograph

'this is just awesome

thanks for taking the time to do it

excellent job

Thanks guys.

After re-reading it, I think I might edit the text a little.

excellent tutorial... thank you

Hey I remember him! I loved doing this photo in charcoal. Didn't do as nice a tutorial but did post a lot of pics during the wip if you are interested.
Boris in charcoal

Thats awesome!! You did a great job on it.

This was a really fun one to do and was like a breath of fresh air. Its interesting to see 2 different styles and 2 different mediums tackle the same subject. Well done with yours for sure. Thanks for the link.

I couldn't agree more. That's awesome.

VERY sweet tutorial. How I love to understand how others build a drawing. Excellent photo-realism piece. Love to see more in depth on adding the details... taking into the realism aspect.
Outstanding work.

Thanks

Thanks I think seeing how other people create their work is inspirational and can open up new doors.

blending with H pencils instead of blending tools during the detail stage is an important factor for detail IMO. For me it is anyway.
I put down a softer grade like a 2B or B where needed and work it into the tooth with a harder grade, like a 2H or 4H. The final stages of detail are harder to explain. Its a juggle between all kinds of different methods. The erasers do a lot of their work, highlights, sharp edges, etc... The kneaded eraser is a nice tool. Layers is the key.

If you have never used "BluTack" You should give it a try.. it is much more versatile than the kneaded eraser for highlights and reductive drawing. Mike Sibley has some great info on it and I have to say it is worth it's weight in gold!
http://www.sibleyfineart.com/tutorial--era...il-blu-tack.htm

Thanks for the tip I've heard nothing but great things about blu tack. For some reason I've never gotten to the point of actually ordering it and trying it out.

Oh and if you don't like it for erasing.. you can stick stuff to the wall with it! But believe me.. you will wonder how you lived without it if as a reductive tool!

I remember it was you that pointed me towards blue tac when i asked about the kneeded erasers ,, so i brought some and its brilliant

Blue tac makes life so much easier, I have tried other brands of wall putty but none compare to Blue tac. The only thing I will add is to order plenty while you are at it, and keep it out of reach of dogs. I don't know why but they seem to think it is a treat as well. I ordered the mellotex paper from him at the same time and love working on it as well. Highly recommend both.

I have tried the tutorial according to the step by step of tutorial,i made one of my grandfather old photo,i did it as like this posted photo.I like to give him thanks for this tutorial.

thanks

Really great work, I end up having to use grids to get that kind of detail.

I'm glad it helped out
Do you have a link to the drawing?

Very super .. Greeting

Thanks for showing the process of this.

Simply awesome

Great job I will never be that good , 10 year olds can't draw very good bekah595